Figuring out exactly what size hub centric rings do i need can feel like a bit of a math headache, but it's actually the simplest way to fix that annoying steering wheel shake you get at highway speeds. If you've just bought a fresh set of aftermarket wheels and noticed the car feels "off," chances are there is a tiny gap between your car's hub and the center of the wheel. Those little rings are the bridge that closes that gap.
To get the right size, you really only need two numbers: the diameter of your car's hub and the diameter of the wheel's center bore. It sounds technical, but it's basically just measuring a hole and a peg. Let's break down how to get those numbers without losing your mind.
Understanding the Two Main Numbers
Every hub centric ring has two measurements, usually listed in millimeters. For example, you might see something like "73.1 to 56.1." The first number (the larger one) is the Outer Diameter (OD), and the second number (the smaller one) is the Inner Diameter (ID).
The Outer Diameter needs to match the center bore of your new wheels. Most aftermarket wheel manufacturers make their center bores extra large so the wheels can fit on as many different cars as possible. Common sizes are 73.1mm or 72.6mm. If the ring is too small, it'll just rattle around inside the wheel; if it's too big, the wheel won't sit flush against the brake rotor.
The Inner Diameter is the size of the actual hub on your car—the part sticking out from the axle. This is the "peg" the wheel sits on. This number has to be exact. Even a fraction of a millimeter off means the ring won't slide onto the hub, or it'll be too loose to actually do its job.
How to Find Your Car's Hub Diameter
You don't necessarily have to go out and crawl under your car with a ruler right away. Most of the time, you can find your car's hub bore size online. Just search for your car's year, make, and model followed by "hub bore."
For instance, a lot of Hondas use a 56.1mm hub, while many Toyotas are 60.1mm. BMWs are often 72.56mm (sometimes rounded to 72.6mm). It's a standardized spec, so as long as you have stock hubs, the internet usually has the answer.
If you want to be 100% sure—maybe because you're dealing with an older car or some custom work—you can measure it yourself. You'll need a pair of digital calipers for this. Don't try to use a standard tape measure; we're dealing with millimeters here, and a tape measure just isn't precise enough. Wipe off any rust or road grime from the hub surface first, then measure the diameter of the center flange.
Finding the Center Bore of Your Wheels
This part can be a little trickier because aftermarket wheel specs aren't always printed on the box or the wheel itself. If you still have the paperwork that came with the wheels, check for "Center Bore" or "CB."
If you don't have the paperwork, check the back of the wheel. Sometimes the size is stamped right into the metal near the bolt holes. If you see "73.1" or "66.6" stamped back there, that's your number.
If there are no markings, it's back to the digital calipers. You want to measure the very back of the wheel where the hole is. Make sure you're measuring the actual hole and not the decorative cap on the front. Measure across the widest part of the circle. Again, precision is key. If you measure 73mm and the actual spec is 73.1mm, that 0.1mm matters for a snug fit.
Why You Shouldn't Just "Eyeball" It
I've seen people try to use electrical tape or even pieces of soda cans to "shim" the gap between the hub and the wheel. Please, don't do that. It might stop the vibration for a mile or two, but it's not safe.
The job of the hub centric ring is to ensure the wheel is perfectly centered while you're tightening the lug nuts. If the wheel is even slightly off-center, the weight of the car isn't resting on the hub; it's resting entirely on the lug studs. Those studs are strong, but they aren't designed to handle those kinds of shear forces alone. Over time, that leads to vibrated-loose lug nuts or, in nightmare scenarios, snapped studs.
Getting the exact size means the wheel stays centered, the load is distributed correctly, and your ride stays smooth.
Plastic vs. Aluminum: Which Should You Choose?
Once you know what size hub centric rings do i need, you'll likely have to choose between plastic (polycarbonate) and aluminum rings. Both have their fans, and honestly, both work fine for daily driving, but there are a few things to consider.
The Case for Plastic
Plastic rings are cheap, easy to find, and they don't corrode. This is a big deal if you live in a place where they salt the roads in the winter. Aluminum rings can sometimes "seize" or oxidize onto the hub, making them a nightmare to get off when you're trying to change a flat tire. Plastic won't do that. They're also slightly flexible, which can make installation a bit more forgiving.
The Case for Aluminum
Aluminum rings are way more durable. If you do any kind of track driving or autocross where your brakes get extremely hot, plastic rings can actually melt or deform. Aluminum can handle the heat. They also feel a bit more "premium" and tend to hold their shape better over years of taking wheels on and off. Just make sure to put a little bit of anti-seize lubricant on the hub before you slide them on.
Common Sizes You Might Encounter
If you're feeling overwhelmed by the numbers, it helps to know that there are some "standard" sizes that pop up all the time in the aftermarket world.
- 73.1mm to 56.1mm: Very common for Subarus and Hondas using aftermarket wheels like Konig or Enkei.
- 73.1mm to 67.1mm: Often seen on Mazdas, Mitsubishis, and some Hyundais.
- 72.6mm to 60.1mm: A classic fitment for many Toyotas and Lexuses.
- 66.6mm to 57.1mm: Common for Volkswagens and Audis when switching between different Euro-style wheels.
If your measurements match one of these common pairings, you can feel much more confident that you've got the right size.
Tips for a Smooth Installation
So you've ordered your rings and they've arrived in the mail. Before you just shove them in and bolt the wheels on, do a quick "test fit."
First, take the ring and try to slide it onto the car's hub. It should be snug but shouldn't require a hammer to get on. If there's a ton of rust on the hub, grab a wire brush and clean it off until the metal is smooth. If the ring fits the hub, take it off and test it in the back of the wheel. It should press in firmly.
Once you're sure they fit both sides, I usually prefer to press the ring into the wheel first, then mount the wheel onto the car. This ensures the ring stays seated properly while you're lifting the heavy wheel into place.
Final Thoughts on Getting it Right
At the end of the day, finding out what size hub centric rings do i need is just a matter of doing a little homework. If you're unsure, most reputable wheel shops are happy to help you figure it out if you tell them what wheels you bought and what car you drive.
Don't settle for "close enough." If the ring is loose, it's not doing its job. If it's too tight, you risk damaging the ring or not getting the wheel seated against the rotor. Take the extra five minutes to verify your car's hub bore and the wheel's center bore. Your steering wheel—and your peace of mind—will thank you once you hit 65 mph and everything is buttery smooth.